Paul Jacqueson has followed in his father’s footsteps keeping the Burgundian Village of Rully firmly on the viticultural map in the excellent value area of the Cote Chalonnaise. Father and then son have been pushing the envelope of quality for well over 50 years and daughter Marie has just begun working in the winery, having finished her studies in the renowned viticultural college in Beaune. The small Domaine of Henri and Paul Jacqueson has been the “Jewel” of Rully for a considerable time. Paul is known for an almost obsessive, meticulous attention to detail in all aspects of the Domaine. Insiders have known for many years that this is the place to come for the finest wines of the area, and compare the Jacqueson wines to much more expensive wines in the Cote de Beaune such as Meursault. We have personally been buying these wines for some 20 years and Paul has never put a foot wrong!
- The entire Domaine comprises some 12 hectares (approx 30 acres) and produces some 60000 bottles per year, 60% white and 40% red.
- Extreme attention in the vineyard to be ahead of any disease development thus completely avoiding the use of chemicals.
- Practice of “ebourgeonnage” or de-budding to restrict the growth of the clusters and thus reduce yield
- Regular cutting back of the vegetation to allow sufficient aeration, with the goal of avoiding the development of parasites
- In general a “lutte raisonne” and work with a specialized organization for the protection of vegetation
- Constant attention to weather forecasts to be able to react rapidly and efficiently to any important meteorological changes
- Personal selection of oak for the barrels used for ageing, with tempering done at the Domaine, and then selection of 3 different barrel makers with very precise instructions on the creation and heating of the barrels to be able to have a selection of barrels which do not interfere, but add to the harmony and complexity of the wines
While both 1er Cru Chardonnay vineyards of Pucelle (2.5 hectares) and Gresigny (1.5 hectares) are within 300 yards of each other and the soils are of clay and limestone, the differences are quite distinctive. Oak aged for 12-14 months (no more than 20% new oak) the Pucelle is more clay based with vines now over 15 years of age, and the wine shows very pure citrus notes and white flowers with refreshing acidity. The soil gives the wine a rounder, rich and rather opulent mouth feel and is virtually ready to drink. The Gresigny comes from vines originally planted in 1950 on a more limestone-debris base, giving a mineral intensity and complexity which would put some Meursaults to shame.
Rully “Les Chaponnieres”. 100 % Pinot Noir. Total area owned 1.70 hectares. Vines 30 years old, with a clay/limestone soil. One of the best village “Lieu-dit”. Hand harvested, severe sorting at harvest time, one week cold soaking before the alcoholic fermentation, oak ageing for 12 months (of which 25% new oak). Ruby colored, intense fruity aromatics with a deft touch of oak
Rully 1er Cru “Les Cloux”. 100% Pinot Noir. Total area owned 1.25 hectares. Vines 45 years old, with a limestone soil with a fine layer of Alluvium/clay,hand harvested, severe sorting at harvest time, one week cold soaking before the alcoholic fermentation, oak ageing for 12 months (of which 25% new oak). The color is bright and intense, the age of the vines adding an additional concentration and depth, giving notes of cherries, red fruits and subtle nuances of violets, with excellent persistence on the palette.
“Selection”. 100% Chardonnay. In 2011 Rully, the home of the Jacquesons, suffered 2 major incidents of hail which reduced white production by in excess of 50%. In order to satisfy strong worldwide demand for their wines, and not to disappoint major clients, the Jacquesons took steps to purchase the very best grapes available in the region, from winemakers of quality that were known to them, to create a very special, highly selective cuvee. This was vinified entirely in the “Jacqueson fashion” creating a fresh, pure and very approachable wine, with a light touch of oak and considerable finesse that could be consumed almost immediately. This has been called the Jacqueson “Selection” to underline the striking quality that consumers expect of the Jacqueson wines. So successful has this wine been, that it has been sold out for some time and thought has been given to continue to produce this type of Special Cuvee again!
Aligote de Bouzeron. The tiny village of Bouzeron is the only Communal or Village appellation for the grape variety of Aligote (created in 1998), thus giving it pre-eminent status for this varietal and the only Village whose name is allowed to be joined with the name of the grape on the label ie Aligote de Bouzeron. Aligote is an almost forgotten, unknown grape variety in Burgundy, which often produces thin, green and acidic wines, that work best as a Kir, when added to Cassis (Blackcurrant liquor) as an aperitif. However, the best Aligote from Bouzeron, due to its micro-climate and sub-soil is an entirely different matter. The first winemakers to make the most of the new appellation status in 1998 included Aubert de Villaine (part owner of Romanee-Conti, who also lives and owns a Domaine in Bouzeron) and Paul Jacqueson. They began to age their more perfumed and complex Aligote in older (2-5 years old) barrels, in order to enhance roundness and richness, but maintain the intrinsic qualities of freshness and pleasing acidity. These are, without doubt, Burgundy’s finest Aligotes, highly drinkable on their own (as an aperitif, or with lightly sauced fish or white meats) which certainly do not require the addition of Cassis to be utterly enjoyable!